Dispatches from the Road: Ithaca & Delaware Water Gap

This past weekend, E and I went upstate. We had never been "upstate" since we moved to New York, and I think we had totally different expectations. Having been to Rochester before, I imagined aging hippies with gardens and lots of rolling hills with farmland. E started playing 70s R&B.

It took us about five hours to get up to Ithaca from the city, given the crappy tolls and the roads. Most of the way, we were on the freeway, but those last 31 miles off the main freeway into Ithaca are a killer, especially during a blinding steamy midsummer storm. With my trusty copilot snoozing away in the passenger seat, I drove around a corner and right into a sunny downpour, completely enfolding me in gray golden light and humid rain, slowing me from 60 to 30 in 3 seconds flat. By the time we rounded the next hill, the rain had moved on, and the world was a hazy glow by the time we hit Ithaca's picturesque downtown. We had been racing the clock to try to make Moosewood Restaurant before the legendary vegetarian mecca closed its lunch service, but we had to settle for the Ithaca Bakery instead. My friend Vanessa had recommended it to me, and we were very pleased to find that we shared her food taste!

Once inside, we then had to decide from a plethora of offerings, including fresh sandwiches, deli offerings, and salad. They also do their own baking and have a coffee bar, as well as selling gourmet packaged specialties. I tried the Flat Rock sandwich, which was turkey, goat cheese, sundried tomatoes, basil and balsamic vinegar on fresh baguette and E tried the Willow, which was barbequed pork. I didn't manage to get a taste of his, but mine was delicious and I assume that given the speed E ate his, it was scrumptious too.


After lunch, we stopped by the Ithaca Falls. It was a random, GPS-scrolling trip ("Hey! Falls!"). We eagerly followed our GPS, only to wind up in a condo parking lot. Confused, we thought maybe the condo had demolished the falls. Coming back down the hill, I missed the turn down Lincoln. As we kept driving, we crossed a small bridge and looked to the right. Falls! Our GPS had directed us to vaguely the source of the Falls, but not their access point. Flipping a quick U-ie, we parked and walked into the falls. It's a gorgeous spot, easily accessible from downtown Ithaca and we were envious of those without prior engagements who were bathing in the warm, sticky afternoon.




After our Ithaca visit, we drove through the stormy night to Scranton, where we had reserved a Sleep Inn. Basic, sure, but it had a pool and a hot tub!

The next morning, after a refreshing pre-breakfast swim, we headed out to find some coffee and find the Pack Shack. Our GPS listed a place called Sacred Grounds, so in a quest to support local business, we embarked on a tour of Scranton's Dunmore neighborhood, which was far swankier than I expected from Scranton. Our GPS was off by about 500 yards, so we arrived at an empty lot, shouted at the GPS, and proceeded to the next intersection to turn around and then arrived at Sacred Grounds (our bored-and-therefore-too-attentive barista got both our orders wrong). Served us right for going so far out of our way for a coffee!

We made it to the Pack Shack, where we had reserved kayaks. They were really sweet and accommodating, and we were the only customers there due to the predicted rain. They drove us upriver about 7 miles and then we came back down, more slowly, enjoying the views of the Delaware.




It was beautiful, pleasant, and silent...blessedly silent, with no music pumping from cars, children screaming on the street at 11pm, car alarms, and all other Sunset Park soundtracks.

We did get rained on, but after we came around a bend of the river, furiously paddling with rivulets of rain in our eyes, the rain suddenly stopped.
After our river cruise, we went for some lunch at Minisink hotel, which was recommended by our kayak hauler. It was the perfect small town bar: the menu's on the wall, everyone knows each other and look at you because they don't know you, and the beer is cheap. All the ball players came in after their games. We enjoyed our food; it was delicious and well-earned.



Afterwards, we drove back into NYC...with full stomachs and tired, sunburnt arms.


Ithaca Bakery
400 N. Meadow
Ithaca NY

Minisink Hotel
Take 80 East to Route 611 Delaware Water Gap (exit No. 310) Turn left at the traffic light onto River Road. At the stop sign by the bend in the road, look to your left. The Minisink is an old red clapboard building by the stream.
Read more about the bar here.